Oily skin: causes and the care that really helps

Oily skin is a skin type whose sebaceous glands produce more sebum than the skin can handle without shine, most often in the middle of the face. If you are looking for cosmetics for oily skin, take a look at the DIAMANT toner or the GLYCOLIC 10% night serum, or let our Advisor guide you.

A woman gently applying toner to oily skin in the morning with a cotton pad

What oily skin is and why it happens

Oily skin occurs when the sebaceous glands work excessively and produce more sebum than the skin needs for its natural protection. The result is a shiny surface, more visible pores and a tendency to shine just a few hours after washing. Sebum production is influenced most by genetics, which determines the size and sensitivity of the sebaceous glands from birth, and by hormones, especially androgens. These rise during puberty, over the menstrual cycle and in periods of stress, and they stimulate the sebaceous glands directly. This skin type is somewhat more often associated with male skin, because testosterone keeps the sebaceous glands more active over the long term, but it appears just as much in women of every age. The mechanism of sebum production is described in more detail by studies on sebum production (source: the PubMed database).

Internal causes are joined by external influences that can make oily skin worse, even though they do not cause it themselves. Heat and high humidity stimulate the sebaceous glands, which is why the oily shine returns faster in summer than in the cooler months. Paradoxically, the opposite extreme leads to the same result: harsh, degreasing cleansing and frequent washing with hot water. The skin feels clean for a moment afterwards, but then makes up for the lost protective layer with even more sebum production. This is called the rebound effect and it is one of the most common reasons why skin only gets worse with overly intensive care. The solution is not to dry the skin out, but to give it gentle cleansing and light, non-comedogenic hydration, which tells it that it does not have to guard its oiliness itself.

Oily skin, combination skin or acne? How to tell them apart

Oily skin, combination skin and acne are often mixed up in everyday speech, although they are three different things. If the shine and larger pores appear evenly across the whole face including the cheeks, it is usually evenly oily skin, which is what this article is about. If, on the other hand, only the area of the forehead, nose and chin, the so-called T-zone, is oily while the cheeks are rather normal or dry, it is most likely combination skin, which needs a different combination of care. You will find more about it in the article do you have combination skin. Increased sebum production is not acne in itself either, although it is among its risk factors, together with clogged pores and inflammation. If you are mainly dealing with spots and inflamed lesions, not just shine and larger pores, you will find a detailed approach in the article acne: causes and care. The distinction matters above all because the routine for each skin type looks a little different.

Close-up of matte, even skin without shine in natural light

What a skincare routine for oily skin looks like

A routine for oily skin works best when it is gentle and regular, not aggressive. In the morning, brief cleansing with lukewarm water and toning is enough, which helps skin look more even without drying it out. The DIAMANT toner suits this, with a composition built on azeloglycine, prickly pear and hyaluronic acid, complemented by salicylic acid. In the evening, two to three times a week, you can add the GLYCOLIC 10% night serum with glycolic acid and salicylic acid, which helps the skin gently shed dead cells and look less shiny. On the other evenings a light non-comedogenic cream is enough, softening the skin without the feeling of a greasy film. During the day it is also worth not forgetting a sunscreen in a light, non-greasy texture, because the sun in the long run worsens the look of enlarged pores and of darker marks left by previous blemishes. Add a new ingredient, for example glycolic acid, to your routine gradually, once a week at first, and watch how your skin reacts.

StepMorningEvening
1. CleansingGentle gel with lukewarm waterGentle gel or micellar water
2. ToningDIAMANT toner on a cotton padDIAMANT toner on a cotton pad
3. CareLight non-comedogenic creamGLYCOLIC 10% serum (2 to 3 times a week) or cream
4. ProtectionCream with sun protection-

What to avoid with oily skin

The most common mistake is the belief that oily skin has to be degreased as thoroughly as possible. Harsh scrubs, alcohol-based toners and more than two washes a day only dry the skin out and trigger the rebound effect already mentioned, in which the skin compensates for it with even more sebum. So try to avoid these habits.

  • Washing with hot water more than twice a day.
  • Alcohol-based toners and harsh degreasing gels.
  • Scratching or scrubbing the face with a rough washcloth.
  • Skipping hydration on the grounds that the skin "does not need" it.
  • Frequently touching your face with your hands during the day.
  • Heavy, oily creams, which do not suit oily skin.

A bathroom shelf with a light toner and serum for oily skin

Oily skin in summer and in winter

Oily skin changes over the year, and it is worth adapting your routine. In summer, heat and humid air stimulate the sebaceous glands, so the shine returns faster and your skin may need some extra gentle mattifying during the day, for example with blotting papers for oily skin rather than another wash. In winter, heated, drier air takes moisture from the skin, so it can be dehydrated at the same time, feel tight and still be shiny. In this period slightly richer, yet still light hydration helps, giving the skin moisture without the feeling of a greasy film. Watching your skin through the year and making small adjustments to your routine is a more natural path than one unchanging routine for the whole year.

Did you know…

Did you know that aggressive degreasing of the skin triggers the so-called rebound effect, in which the skin makes up for the lost protective layer with even more sebum production?

Frequently asked questions

How can I get rid of oily skin?

You neither need to nor can completely "get rid of" sebum on oily skin; it is a skin type determined largely by genetics. What helps is gentle cleansing morning and evening, toning and light non-comedogenic hydration that does not take moisture from the skin. Aggressive degreasing worsens the situation in the long run through the rebound effect. A visibly more matte look usually appears within 4 to 6 weeks of a regular routine.

What products help oily skin?

Most helpful are light, non-comedogenic products with toning ingredients such as azeloglycine or salicylic acid, and occasional gentle exfoliation with glycolic acid. An alcohol-free toner and a cream with a light texture that absorbs easily are suitable. Heavy oils and butters, on the other hand, usually do not suit oily skin, and the skin looks even shinier after them.

Why is my skin very oily even though I wash it thoroughly?

If the shine returns even after thorough washing, it is usually not a matter of insufficient hygiene, but of a combination of genetics, hormones and possibly the rebound effect from overly aggressive cleansing. Try limiting washing to twice a day with lukewarm water for a few weeks and leaving out the alcohol-based toner; the skin usually calms down gradually and produces less sebum.

How does oily skin differ from combination skin?

With this skin type the shine appears evenly across the whole face including the cheeks, whereas with combination skin only the T-zone is oily, the forehead, nose and chin, while the cheeks stay normal or dry. The routine therefore differs slightly: combination skin often needs richer care on the cheeks than on the T-zone.

Is oily skin the same as acne?

No, oily skin is a skin type, while acne is a condition in which pores become clogged with sebum, dead cells and bacteria and inflammation develops. An excess of sebum is only one of the risk factors for acne, not its cause on its own. If you are mainly dealing with spots, you will find more practical steps in a separate article on acne.

Author: Erika Bundalová, head of production and development at Panakeia SK. She prepared the text based on the actual composition of the products and current cosmetics legislation.