In today's cosmetology, terms such as „natural“ or „organic“ are often used as vague marketing labels meant to evoke a feeling of purity and safety. Here at Panakeia, however, we look at nature differently. For us it is not merely a source of pleasant scents, but a technological storehouse of highly concentrated active substances. The real difference between an average product and functional cosmetics does not lie in pretty packaging, but in the quality, the concentration and the method of obtaining the ingredients.
Plant and mineral extracts as we understand them are not just ordinary ingredients., but technologically isolated systems of biologically active molecules that nature developed over millions of years for protection, regeneration and survival in inhospitable conditions. In this article we invite you behind the scenes of our production and look in detail at the mechanisms of extraction, the importance of solvents and six well-known pillars of our formulations: dragon's blood, gotu kola, basil root, and rosehip, rice and malachite extract.
What are extracts and what role do they play in the skin?
We define an extract as a concentrate obtained by separating specific components from biomass (roots, leaves, flowers, bark or minerals) with the help of a suitable medium – a solvent. Our goal when developing formulations is to isolate the active substances, such as antioxidants, flavonoids, vitamins, saponins or trace elements, and to mechanically remove the unnecessary ballast (woody cellulose, for instance) that brings the skin no biological benefit.
In Panakeia cosmetics these extracts serve as a kind of biological software. While the cream base forms a passive protective barrier, the extract gives the skin an active impulse. It can encourage fibroblasts to form collagen, help soothe skin prone to redness or support the skin's own renewal processes. Without an adequate concentration of a quality extract, products would only be a way of temporarily softening the skin with no longer-term effect. Our team therefore makes sure that the active ingredient is present in an amount that truly makes a difference to the skin.
Methods of obtaining extracts
Quality and bioavailability begin with the choice of solvent. Every raw material calls for a different approach so that its molecular structure is not damaged.
1. Extraction with alcohol
Alcohol (pure ethanol) is one of the strongest solvents in cosmetic chemistry. We use it in cases where neither water nor oil can break through the firm cell wall of a plant.
- The process and its meaning: ethanol can extract precious alkaloids, resins and specific antioxidants that are insoluble in other media.
- Our philosophy: for us, alcohol extracts act as „penetration boosters“. They help active substances pass through the natural barrier of the upper layer of the skin and reach the living cells of the epidermis. In our formulations alcohol does not serve as a cheap preservative, but in precisely calibrated micro-doses as a transport medium that maximises the effect without the risk of drying the skin.
2. Oil maceration
This is a traditional method intended for lipophilic substances. For several weeks we steep dried parts of plants in cold-pressed organic oils, which gradually absorb vitamins E and A and phytosterols. The result is a nourishing macerate ideal for dry and sensitive skin.
3. Extraction with glycerin and water
Many antioxidants (polyphenols) are soluble only in water. Using vegetable glycerin ensures the stability of the extract and at the same time gives the product hydrating qualities. Glycerin extracts are exceptionally gentle and stable for reactive skin.
4. Biotechnological extraction
For innovative ingredients we use „hairy roots“ technology – growing root cultures in the laboratory in special bioreactors. This method makes it possible to obtain an extreme concentration of phytochemicals without the influence of a polluted outer environment.
A closer look at our key extracts
1. Dragon's blood
This dark red latex from trees in the Amazon is one of the most powerful elements in our portfolio.
- Composition: it contains taspine and a high concentration of proanthocyanidins (extremely strong antioxidants).
- Effect: it works like a „liquid bandage“. It supports the renewal of the tissue, encourages collagen synthesis and creates a protective barrier against free radicals and smog.
2. Gotu kola
For us at Panakeia, cica is the gold standard when it comes to soothing the skin.
- Composition: rich in triterpene saponins (asiaticoside, asiatic acid).
- Effect: it modulates the activity of fibroblasts and supports the strength of the vessel walls. It is our „rescue system“ for skin with a disturbed barrier, sensitivity or redness.
3. Basil root extract (RootBioTec™)
In hair care we have put our trust in pure science aimed at the root of the matter.
- Composition: specific flavonoids obtained by biotechnological means.
- Effect: it is said to work with the activity of the enzyme 5-alpha reductase, which is associated with hair loss. It encourages the hair bulbs to greater activity and extends the growth phase of the hair without aggressive synthetics.
4. Rosehip extract
The rosehip is our local treasure and a concentrated essence of vitamins.
- Composition: natural vitamin C, carotenoids (provitamin A) and omega fatty acids.
- Effect: it works like a gentle natural retinol. It supports cell renewal, evens out the skin tone and gives it a healthy brightness (the glow effect).
5. Rice extract
In concentrated form, rice is one of the oldest beautifying ingredients in the world.
- Composition: rich in inositol (vitamin B), ferulic acid and amino acids.
- Effect: it is said to work with the activity of tyrosinase, helping to brighten the look of pigment spots and even out the skin tone. At the same time it smooths the surface of the skin and reduces the visibility of pores.
6. Malachite extract
Malachite is a liquid extract from a precious stone, rich in bioavailable copper.
- Composition: essential trace elements (copper) that stimulate antioxidant enzymes.
- Effect: it works like an anti-stress programme. It protects the cells from digital stress (blue light) and helps cleanse the skin of traces of heavy metals from city air.
How to read the composition (INCI) and recognise quality?
When buying cosmetics, always look at the back label (the INCI list). The ingredients are listed in descending order according to their proportion. If an extract is at the very end of the list (after the perfume or the preservatives), its amount is probably below 1 %, which has a minimal effect. What should you look at?
- The placement of the active substances: you can recognise a quality product by the key extracts appearing in the first third, or at least the first half, of the list. At Panakeia we make sure that our leading ingredients form the essence of the formulation.
- The base and the carrier of the product: pay attention to what the extracts are worked into. Cheap fillers such as mineral oils are petroleum derivatives that create a non-breathable film on the skin and can block the passage of the precious extracts. Quality cosmetics use organic plant oils or hydrolats (flower waters), which multiply the effect.
- Purity: for the greatest effectiveness, it is important that the product is not oversaturated with synthetic perfumes, which can cause micro-irritation and diminish the regenerating effect of the plant ingredients.